3 London Bistros That Set the Tone for This Interior Style
No day is ever the same in London’s buzzing gastronomic scene, and so it should be no surprise that, here, multiple trends can coexist.
Having spent the two years surveying for London’s best restaurants, paying equal attention to the spacey decor of Peckham’s coolest new Vietnamese eatery, Lai Rai, as to the sweeping, Mediterranean-inspired look of plush Michelin-starred address, Lita Marylebone, I can assure you I’ve seen it all — dining rooms so surreally cinematic that you are transported straight into your favorite sci-fi film plot; others, where design is stripped back to the essentials purposefully to allow the food to come to the fore; and places so boldly unusual you forget where you are mouthful by mouthful.
It’s from the breadth of my recent foodie experiences that I will share what, only until recently, I would have thought to be an unpopular opinion, but clearly isn’t so anymore: theatrical ‘visual effects’ aside, sometimes all it takes for an eatery to make it into your favorites is a casual, unassuming atmosphere, plenty of genuinely good food, and an excuse to revel in some unfiltered fun, no screens allowed. If that’s what you’re craving for, no place will fit the brief better than one of the next-generation London bistros.
After noticing how, in contrast with the extravagant schemes of numerous, Instagram-famous establishments, many of the best eateries in London right now are “undergoing a touch of a return to classicism” in their decor, Livingetc‘s Hugh Metcalf asked the question for us all: “Are we tired of hospitality design trying to overtly court us to elevate them to virality?”
Perhaps it is so. But thinking that the more restrained and, at times, lived-in dining rooms of London bistros disregard the contemporary guest’s appetite for style would be an oversight. Think about it like a cultural reset: with their instantly recognizable Bentwood Chairs and stools, eye-catching tiled floors, white cloth-topped tables, and nonchalantly hung artworks, London bistros seek to convince us that, yes, less can be more.
Because, perhaps, choosing simplicity over the showiness of our times is what it takes to reclaim the joy of non-mediated social life. The addresses below have made soulful gastronomy an opportunity to let connection thrive.
1. Josephine Marylebone, Marylebone
6-8 Blandford St, London W1U 4AU
I owe my discovery of Claude and Lucy Bosi’s London bistro, Josephine Marylebone (also based in the nearby Chelsea), to my editor, Hugh Metcalf, and his April Zeitgeist Edit. Speaking on how he never takes “a restaurant recommendation without scoping out interiors first,” he described how, after years of purposefully looking out for truly extravagant hospitality spaces, he suddenly found himself gravitating toward more grounding and less intentionally dazzling expressions of restaurant design. The brainchild of Spitafields-based Fabled Studio, with bespoke cherry red banquettes and furniture by Noble Russell, Josephine Marylebone met Hugh midway, simultaneously oozing with patinated spectacle and a reassuring air of familiarity.
Far be it from me to call Josephine Marylebone a ‘simple’ London bistro: even just in pictures, it is easy to see how the golden aura of its Art Deco lighting, immersive antique mirrors, cocooning booths, striking gallery walls, and speckled terrazzo floors would be enough to get anyone curious. Perhaps, then, what made both Hugh and me consider this new eatery part of this retro-fueled gastronomy moment is its ability to resonate with the public by choosing to look back — recreating an intimate, raw, and absorbing ambiance that travels guests straight to France, while staying true to the heartwarming Lyonnais staples they have become known for.
Tables might be closer than in most London restaurants, but favoring unexpected interactions, this is a perk, not a flaw. Portions are generous, ideal to share, and the relatable vibe of Josephine means people can really focus on savoring every bite of its earthy meat dishes, stunning crudo assemblements, and luscious desserts. Their chocolate mousse? What can I say — they know how to get me there.
Book your table at Josephine Marylebone.
2. Café Deco, Bloomsbury
43 Store St, London WC1E 7DB
Softly launched in the autumn of 2020 amidst the lockdown-mandated takeaway era, Café Deco doesn’t necessarily calls itself a London bistro. Still, both the attention paid by chef patron Anna Tobias (of The River Cafe and Rochelle Canteen fame) to simply mouthwatering ingredients and the spirited, pastel-shaded dining room of this burgeoning Bloomsbury hangout wouldn’t look out of place on a warmly-lit, Parisian road. Aesthetically, Café Deco boasts the charm of a storied neighborhood eatery, the sort of place families and friends keep returning to without questioning, welcomed back by the crafty logo stamped on its slightly whimsical, wavy awnings and lively background chatter every time.
But let me tell you: what lies inside of it, be it the playfully vibrant, disco tiles of its floors, the ever-changing pickled vegetable jars and other delicacies on display in its vintage bar counter, or the seasonal plates that land on your table while visiting, is all the more worthwhile. My first taste of Tobias’s craft comes under the guise of mayo-glazed, anchovy-topped deviled eggs, European-style, smoky charcuterie, buttery, charcoal-roasted autumnal vegetables, a salad of bitter leaves, duck, and pickled plums, fennel and pan-fried sea bass, and a truly stunning, espresso and vanilla-layered pannacotta. Don’t think I am that gluttonous; this was all to share.
The staff is friendly, relaxed, and totally on it, making lingering just a little longer than you would do at any other eatery a no-brainer. And that’s truly great, as it’s only in spending more time there that you’ll start noticing all the subtle details that make Café Deco’s Parisian style decor-inspired design scheme so unique. Created by Casswell Bank Architects in collaboration with interior and furniture designer Michael Marriott, and Anna Hodgson and Harry Darby, responsible for the captivating signage and figurative mural frieze, the address charms you with its romantic spherical lighting, antique touches, and muted chartreuse tiling. Could you have guess this was once a humble dairy shop and London caf?
Book your table at Café Deco.
3. One Club Row, Shoreditch
1 Club Row, London E1 6JX
I am yet to try Shoreditch’s One Club Row, the fairly recent new opening by the Hugh Note Hospitality group, dreamed up by restaurateurs James Dye and Benny Leibowitz with chef Patrick Powell at the helm, but all I heard about it from Livingetc‘s interiors editor, Emma Breislin, bodes well for my future visit to this atmospheric eatery. A NYC-inspired dining room nestled above the entrepreneurs’ pub, The Knave of Clubs, One Club Row falls in the growing category of so-called ‘secret London restaurants’: almost impossible to spot as such from the outside, the only hint at its indoor activity being the jazz nightlife venue-style blue awnings placed atop its entrance, it unfolds as a surprisingly moody, dynamic eatery that would you get you in any discerning diner’s good graces on the spot. As Emma herself puts it, stepping inside is a leap of faith worth taking.
“Tucked down a side street, almost completely concealed in graffiti, the entry to One Club Row perfectly captures its vibe; those who know, know,” she recounts. “Upstairs, it feels like you’re sitting in a close (and very cool) friend’s living room — snug, but not squished; lively (someone played the piano at one point), but not loud; classy while still feeling comfortably casual. And the design was just as unostentatious; cool in the way it doesn’t try too hard — the walls stripped back to plaster, bistro-style Bentwood chairs, white plates, and classic glassware. We’d already booked to come back for a friend’s birthday before we’d even made it through our burgers.”
The vision of interior designer Nikki Weetch, it pairs raw surfaces and a perfectly imperfect feel with lavish accents, particularly in the beautiful lighting, occasional silver detailing, and airy drapery, with music-inspired paintings by British-Congolese London artist Joy Yamusangie as the sole pops of color on the walls. The menu ranges from spectacularly presented seafood plates, moreish bites such as the indulgent lobster and country ham croquettes, and American-style staples like a good-old Caesar to abundant handmade pasta dishes, steak and frites, and burgers galore.
Book your table at One Club Row.
What Are the Elements of Bistro-Style Interiors?
Now that you’ve familiarized yourself with this design genre via some of the hottest London bistros of the moment, we’ll keep it short and sweet. Shall we?
• Wooden furniture: Bistro staples like the Bentwood chair instantly signify the comforting and simultaneously chic vibe London bistros and bistros worldwide are renowned for. Including these touches in a restaurant design scheme is like telling diners: “you’re home.”
• Art Deco & Antique Echoes: Think theatrical lighting, antique mirrors and frames, and anything else that conveys that ‘stuck-in-time’ feel, although subtly. Going overboard with these would mean making a dining room far too classical for what we view as the Livingetc aesthetic, but a sprinkle of heritage decor has never killed anyone: if anything, it shows you know your references.
• Quirky Gallery Walls & Murals: No authentic French bistro fails to feature at least a handful of uniquely framed paintings, photographs, and prints, possibly scattered across the eatery in a bit of a creative maze. As we have seen at Café Deco, this can be done less literally, through handprinted murals that convey the same inspired air, or by pairing the art curation back to just a few, selected artworks for a minimalist effect.
The growing popularity of London bistros stands for an urge for places that make us feel welcome, energized, and warm, letting us indulge in the simplest yet most comforting flavors away from the stuffiness of more traditional fine-dining establishments. Together with the abrupt rise of restaurant merchandise, these French-inspired retro coves are meant for people who want to belong — and share some good-old-times, offline moments with those who join them around the table.
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