A new restaurant in Bengaluru embodies Mexico’s rustic beauty and Aztec heritage

Bengaluru’s old-timers will remember how in the 1990s, Big Kids Kemp was the biggest draw in Ramanashree Arcade on M.G Road. Since it shuttered in 2017, the space has had a revolving door of outlets. However, starting from December 2024, a cactus-shaped hollow light installation on a viridian green wall, designed by Sanjay Bhat of The End of the Tunnel Project grabbed attention. Curious people climbed up to the cobble-stoned verandah to ask what was coming. They soon had their answer when the 1,580-square-foot Comal (pronounced com-aal, meaning a flat griddle), Bengaluru’s newest Mexican cantina and brainchild of Chef Varun Pereira and entrepreneur Pratheek K. R, opened.

A Road Trip and An Evolving Design

The salmon pink shade on the wall can only be seen in the outdoor verandah.

Jubin Johnson

Lizard motifs on some Talavera tiles emphasise Mexico’s connection to the natural world and folklore

Jubin Johnson

Architect Pronoti Chabbi of Studio Grain who designed Comal says that the initial mood board for the restaurant in Bengaluru was scrapped when Chef Varun was on his three-week road trip discovering the food of Mexico first-hand. “When he sent us photos, we realised that the relaxed Tulum look we had planned would not work,” she explains.

Chef Varun saw a Mexico that was far removed from the popular perception of loud, colourful, and in-your-face. What he found was more subtle and rustic with pops of colour, and that dictated the new design.

The initial idea was to have a glass door from which to see the mural. The evolving design finally saw a solid cerulean blue door instead.

Jubin Johnson

The outside verandah with the cactus light and real cacti has cane seating. You push past the large wooden cerulean blue door, which perfectly represents Mexican architecture’s penchant for being grounded and solid. The cobblestone foyer you step into, another common feature in most Mexican establishments, is the reservation kiosk. A large part of the wall you face is a mural by Bondasoup Art Studio. “A collage would have made it look like a bar and so we chose a single bold design inspired by the vivid street art heritage of Mexico,” Pronoti explains.

A corner table here, against a backdrop of chipped plaster and a brick wall is done up in a homage to Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Placed on a lace runner are a skull, fresh marigolds, and a black, lit candle. In a niche on the opposite wall is a Talavera-tiled Mother Mary.

Mixed and Matched, Yet Seamless

The tiles are custom-made by Shibani Diwalkar.

Jubin Johnson

The floors across Comal has a muted brown shade.

Jubin Johnson

To step into the restaurant, you pass an arch that is fitted with a series of custom-made Talavera tiles by renowned tile artist Shibani Diwalkar. Each carries a single motif inspired by Mexico’s flora, fauna, and Aztec heritage.