Mazarine review: the emotions of the sea on a plate

From London restaurateurs Khaled Dandachi and Fred Srouchi – the duo behind Sparrow Italia in Mayfair – comes a much-anticipated addition to the revitalised Hanover Square. Set within the sumptuous Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, which opened last year, Mazarine is a coastal French concept led by chef Thierry Laborde, who trained under Alain Ducasse at Monaco’s three-Michelin-starred Le Louis XV before helping shape the British capital’s early ‘bistronomy’ movement with Chabrot Bistro d’Amis.

Mazarine Restaurant, London

The interior design, realised by New York studio Bolt Builds, steers decisively away from maritime tropes in favour of a bolder, more sculptural language. Mediterranean blues are almost absent, surfacing only in the table linens, upholstery and florals. Instead, a palette of sand, oyster and warm stone hues anchors the space, aligning it with the edgier London restaurant landscape.

‘We focused on evoking the emotions of the sea rather than illustrating it. Movement, depth, reflection, softness, shadowplay, those became our design tools,’ says Matthew Dennis, founder and lead designer of Bolt Builds.

The intimate ground-floor restaurant unfolds with the logic of a geological formation, settling into an enveloping atmosphere come nightfall. At its core is a monolithic carved-stone bar, which Dennis calls ‘the emotional centre of the restaurant’. Above it, a dramatic pendant cascades like molten bronze. The motif continues through the metalwork tracing the railings, the pale timber seating and custom tables, and the shimmering metal-mesh curtains that delineate the private dining room.

Most striking is the pearlescent ceiling, which seems to ebb and flow with the strength of an underwater current. This sense of movement is echoed in the bouclé and woven textiles and in the curved banquette wall that grounds the room, bringing warmth, tactility and a fluid spatial rhythm. ‘It’s a space that rewards attention and invites calm,’ notes Dennis.

On the plate, whispers of classical French technique meet a distinctly modern sensibility, with a fish- and seafood-focused menu built around texture and provenance. The hors d’oeuvres section opens with inventiveness: the house croque monsieur reimagined with black truffle and blue lobster, or a smoked eel croquette with a delicate crunch. Burgundy snails in garlic and parsley butter remain a traditional house speciality, while the bluefin tuna with classic peppercorn sauce (best paired with crisp potato churros), offers a transportive richness mirrored in a wine list that is authentic, precise and indulgent.